An imposing castle rises over a moody city. Tourists stroll across an elegant bridge above a meandering river while publicans fill tall glasses with crisp and foaming lagers. Café chatter in several languages merges with the notes of street musicians playing on a Baroque square. It sounds like Prague, Hollywood’s favorite pick for a fairytale European location. Only this is Ljubljana (Loo-joob-leana), Slovenia’s compact capital. It exudes the same vibe as its bigger rival but with far fewer tourists. While the Czech capital accommodated 7.44 million visitors in 2023, Ljubljana welcomed just 1.1 million—far fewer to fight for its restaurant tables or clog its historic streets.
“Ljubljana is full of similar beautiful buildings, cafes, and parks yet you don’t have to fight through huge crowds of tourists like you do in Prague. It’s a small metropolis with great potential,” says Jana Krasna, a Prague tour guide who knows both cities well.
Boats on the Ljubljanica River pass under Šuštarski most (Cobbler’s Bridge) as they float through Ljubljana, Slovenia.
Photograph by Andrej Tarfila, Slovenia.info
Ljubljana’s medieval character similar to Prague Both cities were once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, so the similarities can be seen while exploring Ljubljana’s neighborhoods. Like Prague’s Malá Strana, Ljubljana’s Krakovo district preserves a medieval character. Once home to the city’s fishermen and market gardeners, its narrow streets still feature urban gardens between its ancient townhouses. At the same time, Miklošičeva Street and surrounding avenues showcase Ljubljana’s Art Nouveau heritage, rivaling Prague’s famous examples of the same swirling style. Visitors shouldn’t miss the Cooperative Bank Building, a color bomb of intense coral and blue. Other Art Nouveau landmarks include the Municipal Savings Bank and the Hauptmann House.
Get an authentic taste of Ljubljana and visit Odprta kuhna (Open Kitchen), the city’s gourmet food market in Pogačarjev trg.
Photograph by Jošt Gantar, Slovenia.info
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Slovenian architect leaves his masterful mark on both cities The parallels continue. Just as the Vltava River in Prague flows beneath the Gothic spans of Charles Bridge, Ljubljana’s willow-lined Ljubljanica River passes under the Triple Bridge that serves the smaller city. Ljubljana’s beloved architect Jože Plečnik was commissioned to redesign an early span in the 1930s, and his masterpiece now enjoys a UNESCO World Heritage designation as do his other buildings in the city. Plečnik gave Ljubljana a distinctive character by blending classical elements with modernist touches across multiple landmarks. His work includes the National and University Library with its dramatic black marble staircase and parts of the city’s Central Market on Vodnikov trg and Pogačarjev trg squares. No stranger to Prague, Plečnik left his mark on both capitals and helped restore Prague Castle while giving Ljubljana its distinctive architectural character.
Ljubljana Castle’s history, scenic views, and elevated dining Ljubljana’s hilltop citadel may not match the Prague fortress in terms of size, but its position atop a promontory commands similar symbolic power over the city below. A place of habitation from the Bronze Age, it was built in stages over several centuries, starting in the 11th century. The castle’s current form was established in the 15th century and later restored in 1980. Meander up the hill on foot or take a funicular to whisk you to see panoramic views of the old town’s red-tiled roofs and the Julijske Alpe (Julian Alps) beyond.
The castle’s wine bar offers some of the best views overlooking the old towns. “It’s magical, the most romantic spot for a glass of Slovenian sparkling wine,” says Simona Skubic, a knowledgeable English-speaking tour guide. Visitors can arrange a guided tour through the Visit Ljubljana’s website.
Originally a medieval fortress, Ljubljana Castle is a gateway to exploring the history of Slovenia. The iconic landmark hosts intimate jazz concerts and features a restaurant in Archer’s Tower.
Photograph by Andrej Tarfila, Slovenia.info
The castle also features a fascinating exhibition on Slovenian history, but unlike Prague’s fortress, visitors can enjoy intimate jazz concerts or dine in Archer’s Tower at Strelec. The Michelin-rated restaurant has a changing menu derived from local produce and meats paired with regional wines. “The food is exquisite; it deserves its star,” she says.
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Ljubljana’s markets, coffeehouses, and craft beer Such elevated dining is part of a broader food scene, one best experienced at ground level. “The Central Market is the stomach of Ljubljana,” declares Skubic, “It’s not touristy but the place locals go to shop for their fresh cheeses, meats, and produce like our city’s beloved heirloom lettuce grown on local farms.”
From mid-March through October, locals and visitors gather on Fridays for “Open Kitchen.” This market square is transformed into an open-air food festival that’s presided over by a rotating number of chefs whipping up everything from traditional dishes to contemporary fusion with much of it sourced from Slovenia’s renowned farmer growers. Plečnik’s Covered Market, the colonnaded two-story building is the place to go for Slovenian products like honey and olive and pumpkin seed oils.
Holding a wok, a chef flambés food for an event at Obprta kuhna (Open Kitchen) Market.
Photograph by Jošt Gantar, Slovenia.info
The charms of Ljubljana’s coffeehouses rival Prague’s, especially along the cobblestone streets of the Old Town. At Café Čokl, baristas serve single-origin beans in a historic building. Their roastery infuses the space with the smells of roasting beans. For Old World grandeur, try the Grand Hotel’s 1905-era Kavarna Union. It once hosted bemedaled Austrian generals, courtesans, and mutton-chopped journalists beneath crystal chandeliers. Now matriarchs gather to sip their cups in vanished Viennese splendor while their grandchildren congregate at Stow, a hipster café in the City Museum. For both generations, a café visit is no rushed affair.
“Slovenians drink a lot of coffee, we’re number one in coffee consumption in Eastern Europe,” says Skubic. And we don’t have Starbucks—not a single one. Instead, we meet friends. We talk. We take our time.”
When coffee breaks yield to evenings, Ljubljana’s craft beer scene takes over. At Pritličje, a café-bar-cultural center, students and professionals mingle over pints from local breweries like Tektonik and Loo-blah-nah, the latter cheekily named to help visitors pronounce the city’s name. Order the house burger with ajvar (a red pepper relish) to taste how Ljubljana mixes tradition with international cuisine. A late-night DJ spins until 2 a.m. For a grittier scene, head to Metelkova, a former military barracks transformed into a graffiti-splashed cultural center where street art, bars, and musical performances draw a mix of queer and straight audiences.
A popular spot for residents and tourists alike, Ljubljana Castle provides the ultimate vantage point for panoramic views of the city.
Photograph by Andrej Tarfila, Slovenia.info
Where to stay When planning a visit to Ljubljana, luxury travelers should consider staying at the five-star 165-room Intercontinental Ljubljana, which features alpine views and is a prime central location. For small-scale charm, the 16-room Vander Urbani tucked in the old town features a rooftop pool and a boutique sensibility.
April1550 exemplifies Ljubljana’s intimate scale and personal touch. Housed in one of the city’s oldest buildings (dating to 1550, as the name suggests), this eight-room boutique hotel combines the original exposed wooden beams and stone walls with contemporary comforts.
Located on Stari trg (Old Square) in the heart of Ljubljana, each room features unique decor that blends Slovenian craftsmanship with modern design. And guests sleep soundly. Cars are mostly banned from Ljubljana’s central district, which is no surprise in a nation named by National Geographic as one of the world’s most sustainable countries.
“You’re in the center of the city where footsteps are louder than engines,” says Skubic. “It feels like a time warp to something simpler. Don’t rush. Take your time. Sit by the river and order a coffee—or wine—we won’t judge. Ljubljana has the heart of a big city, but the soul of a small town.”
Andrew Nelson is the author of National Geographic’s recently published travel book Here Not There. Follow him on Instagram.
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